Tuesday, February 28, 2012

K + L = Killer Lunch

I visited downtown Sebastopol for the first time today, learning about the organic business community-to-be at the old Barlow Apple Factory location. The site is still under construction -- and still in the throes of the local permit game -- but developer Barney Aldridge says the complex should be up and running by this September, with several tenants already in place and several more moving in this July. Since talking about development projects is hungry work, Barney, a prospective yoga studio tenant, and the charming Kosta Browne boys (who will be moving their production facility and opening a tasting room at The Barlow) all sat down with me at K&L Bistro on South Main Street for some sustenance.

Karen and Lucas Martin run this bustling little rockstar of a restaurant, delivering international flavor through local ingredients and a decidedly French technique. Grazing through most of the appetizers, our group managed to hit the gorgeous grilled Monterey sardines, spicy tuna tartare with sriracha and avocado, salt cod gratin, and the absolutely delectable steamed pork buns with Hoisin sauce, scallions, and Asian slaw. These porky little beauties were so nice we had them twice, accompanied by some bright and sassy Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch Chardonnay.

My favorite single item of the lunch, however, was the outrageously French wild mushroom omelette with green salad.  The thing was textbook: pale, tender and juicy egg exterior folded into the classic torpedo shape, barely concealing a cornucopia of earthy wild mushrooms, fines herbes, and gruy√®re.  Pure bliss with the DuMol pinot noir we'd broken into.  

Vive la succulence!

An omelette and a glass of wine was one of Elizabeth David's favorite dinners, but I think it's just as perfect for lunch.  Well done, K&L.

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